If only fire drills were this much fun in America...

7th Grade Students in their cluttered environments

From my bedroom window, I couldn't resist capturing this breathtaking spectacle on film.  The principal and teachers take turns spraying the massive hose to seize the burning gas, while students huddle open-mouthed and awed at this magic show of a fire drill.  The sense of urgency  is quite muffled in the demand for entertainment.  My co-teacher told me the teachers all hope the hose gets sprayed on their windows so that they're finally cleaned.  And that's a Korean Fire Drill...

 

Jazzin' it up at Jarasum

Cramped and confined by the concrete I call home, I crave comfort from vast, unindustrialized land.  Particularly in Korea where mountains high five soaring apartment buildings, to interact with land free of screeching horns and flashing “HOF” (bar) signs is a rarity these days.  This landscape explains much about the character of Koreans, and juxtaposed to the vastness of America, landscape also sheds light on American culture.  I, along with many Americans, value our self-constructed concepts of privacy and space.  From the trivial size of a pillow and having to leave my door propped open to the living room, to the more complex matters of the mind, where I tread shallow waters daily, speaking painfully clear and concise to achieve even the simplest of meaning, I find myself craving space.  Maybe it’s freedom, maybe it’s just simply homesickness—however I label it, it’s damn persistent. 

Although this problem presents itself physically, it manifests mentally.  And ironically, often the remedy is physical.  Throw music in there and you’ve the concoction for a mighty, giant dose of jivin’ endorphins. 

The Jarasum International Jazz Festival is held annually in Gapyeong, South Korea.  2010 marks its seventh successful year.  The festival is a three-day event, wherein you can buy a three-day pass or opt for pricier daily passes.  There is also camping available.  Had I prepared better, I would have camped.  The campsites were located right smack in the midst of the action, so literally, you wouldn’t miss a beat. 

Transportation is fairly simple.  I traveled by train from Cheongnyangi subway station (Line 1).  However, I’d advise pre-purchasing train tickets as they were nearly sold out and my traveling partner had to stand.  Otherwise, it’s a smooth ride and you’re instantly greeted with a detailed map of the concert stages, along with times and acts.  Although tickets to the festival sold out prior to our arrival, there are multiple stages with free performances.  Bring a blanket, grab a bottle of wine (7-11 mini stand located inside with reasonable prices), and let the music take hold.  As the sun sprawled across the mountains, the groovin’ began.  Little girls spun their frilly bottoms as the whimsical women took to their feet.  I couldn’t find the energy to sit down, either, I’ll admit.

A taste of Korea: Adventures from Jeju Island to Seoul

Apologies for the lag…of uh…life.  I assure you, if you ventured into the crevices of my imagination, you would have read pages and pages of blog entries. I’ve written them while watching children sheepishly stare at me on the subway, women jiggle their fat in the corner of the gym, and while taking silent strolls nestled secretly between class times.  They’re sharp, attentive, pieces of those moments.  Unfortunately, those entries are as transparent as tangible entries.  So, deep breath.  Let me compartmentalize. 

Let’s do the basics.  Travel.

Travels:

Jeju Island

Honeymoon Island.  The mouthy slogan boasts, “The world comes to Jeju and Jeju comes to the world.”  I stayed with a fellow Fulrighter at her homestay for part of the time, while opting for Lonely Planet’s recommended hostel, Hiking Inn, the other half.  Korean thanksgiving, Chuseok provided the means for this optimal travel experience.  Besides honeymooners, this island is often visited by high school students, perhaps akin to the American Niagara Falls, Washington D.C., etc. annual overnight trip (oh wait, 9-11 and budget kids nixed those opportunities for me).   The Island is easily navigated by bus.  The two largest cities are Jeju-si— cosmopolitan Korean-city feel, flashing lights, moody 20-somethings in oversized sweaters, and coffee priced higher than bimipap and Seogwipo, a smaller, cozy coastal town, easily navigated, with better beaches and olles in proximity.   An olle is essentially a marked hiking/walking trail that runs parallel, in most instances, to the water.  I use parallel loosely, for let’s bear in mind that this is Korea, so the trails intersect rice fields, tourist traps, the lawns of the elite, and bustling bus stops.  Get a tourist map at the airport.   Find the desired distance, hop on a bus, and get a groovin’.  I did Olle 8, and it nearly trumps the coastal views of Ireland. 

Other points of interest: 

Jungmun Beach- arguably most touristy beach on the Island, but the warm, shallow waters provided great relief post Olle.  Filled with foreigners, but the environment was congenial and even entertaining, as we combined English skills to instruct the Korean lifeguard how to say “Come ClosER.”  Koreans struggle with “r” pronunciation, so despite many painful attempts, the lifeguard still bellowed “COME CLOSE,” in his megaphone.  Ahh, it was lovely. 

            In addition to daytime fun, I also had a bonfire on the beach with friends I met in Seoul.  Not sure of the legality, but we gathered supplies, hid beneath the humongous Hyatt Hotel and smore’ed the night away.  We justified the situation given the fact that drunk Koreans were skinny-dipping down the shore.  They eventually extended their stamp of approval by running over in their boxers to scatter twigs on our extinguishing flame.  Have I mentioned that Koreans are a kind bunch of people?

Udo Island- A small island reached by ferry in the Northeast.  Take a taxi or bus (obviously taxi is quicker) from either major city—it’s about 45 minutes to one hour respectively.  We haggled a taxi driver for 25,000 won, or about $25 to allow five people, only two of which female, to make the trek from Jeju-si.  5,000 won and my birth date got me a ferry ticket.  Check out my picassa album to appreciate the absolute wonder of this island and the ferry habits of Korean—sleeping rooms, which I would highly recommend for American ferries.  So simple, yet so delightful, like peanut butter and bread, or maybe I just say that because it remains the only snack in my home besides Frosted Flakes. 

            Rent scooters or ATVS on the island.  It’s cheap, relatively speaking.  15,000-30,000 won for two hours of absolute bliss.  Life is sure delicious zipping around squatting ajumas (married Korean women, or older traditional Korean women) masked by rice fields with the salty taste of ocean blasting you in the face.  Weeeeeee……up and over we romped, stalled, and pushed.  Stopping at lighthouses and cliffs to observe, this was a day to remember.  

Gyeongju, South Korea

            The Korean Fulbright program hosts two annual conferences each year.  The fall conference is in Gyeongju, South Korea.  We exchanged teaching ideas, discussed homestay horror stories, among other cultural business, came to the conclusion that most of us are in the dreaded “rejection phase” of culture shock (there are four phases, according to most scholars), and finally, had 10 hours of choir practice.  I missed the fine print that necessitates strong singing abilities for a Fulbright ETA.
Obviously, they didn’t know that when I was in 11^th grade I overheard my chorus singing partner cackling over how her “singing partner was the worst singer in the world.” 

            Why sing?  Well, that leads me to my next adventure.  We did some sightseeing as well.  Check out the slideshow below to relish is some of Korea’s rich and extensive history.

Shilla Hotel, Seoul, South Korea:  Fulbright Korea’s 60^th Anniversary Banquet

            60 years in Korea is a milestone.  It’s like big freakin’ deal.  So, like all big deals, we threw a big party.  This big party was held at the swanky and sexy, Shilla Hotel in Seoul.  Drop the name and Koreans know what you’re talking about.  Congratulatory messages were sent from President Obama and President Lee Myung-bak.  US Ambassodar Stephens was a highlighted speaker who was regretfully unable to attend.  Among other mentionable State Department employees, Mrs. Harriet Mayor Fulbright herself was in attendance.  She looks smashing for her age, the mystery that it is. 

After speeches, a sensual seven-course Western style dinner, and various performances, we performed a touching song about hate crumbling and bonds forging.  The people still awake really enjoyed it.  It was fun, given the fact we cheersed to about 6 glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon prior to our cultish entrance on stage. 

            Besides singing and stuffing my face, I did some sightseeing and Seoulighting.  I’ll blog on the Seoul nightlife soon, but here are some photos to share in my adventures in Seoul.