Traveling to Haeinsa after two weeks of orientation—and before the kick-off of Camp Fulbright—was exceptional timing. In summation, Haeinsa provided me with the following: access to sought-after knowledge, Buddhism at-large and the role/function of a monk therein; time for personal reflection and self-adjustment; socialization with new individuals in a new, unexplored environment; hiking—an outlet for my physical energy and zeal for the outdoors; and lastly, greater exposure to Korean culture, namely food presentation and etiquette.
To elaborate some, I will outline some of the highlights of my trip. Foremost, getting introduced to monsoon season while trekking up Gaya Mountain to visit the Temple was quite an experience. In a lot of ways, it provided what I thought to be a candid and honest presentation of Korea. Thrust high above sea level and enclosed by bellowing mountains and steamy fog provided an eerie and omniscient backdrop to Haeinsa. Exploring the ins and outs of the many unmarked (well, unmarked to me because my Korean is limited to Hi. How are you? Where are you going?) buildings and exchanging photography tips with some of the more well-equipped and insightful photographers made me feel connected to my environment. I saw the landscape in terms of composition. This is a new lens for me.
Besides traveling through sacred texts and mediation rooms, I also enjoyed the traditional and “very formal” (according to Ji Soo, our RA) Korean dinner (Bulgogi). Sitting among individuals who are beginning to transcend acquaintances and digesting foreign tastes and textures, I developed a sincere appreciation for having this opportunity as an ETA. The room was humming with human liveliness and zest. Also, getting to practice bowing and reciting pre/post dinner blessings in that setting was excellent preparation for many similar upcoming dining experiences.
As for Saturday, I woke up early to travel to the traditional drum ceremony held at Haeinsa. Expecting something trying and possibly dull (envisioning dedicated patience and silence), I was pleasantly surprised by the ceremony. One monk chatted casually with us beforehand and even cracked a joke or two, which set a much different tone immediately. What followed was a rich display of foreign sounds and rhythms. Recording some sounds and working to get precise camera angles (employing my photography tips from the day before, you see!), the temple exploded with energy once the drumming began. Older Korean tourists ran to the “holy” water, gulping it rapidly in route to the mandala where they walked briskly and precisely in a mapped maze—a tradition that asks walkers to forget their worries and let their minds free.
After Haeinsa, I did two of the best things of the entire trip. For starters, I got to hike. I regret not starting earlier though, for we did not get to hike to the top, as evening was approaching too soon and the Park Ranger instructed us otherwise. Nonetheless, a group of about six girls got to trump up the side of Gaya Mountain, stopping to enjoy one of the six bridges we crossed, admire the breathtaking scenery, and once, we even threw off our shoes and waded around in the chilly, rushing water. I got to spend some time conversing one-on-one with new individuals and outlet my increasing energy—a double whammy!
Last on my list for Haeinsa would be my first trip to a traditional Korean spa. What a treat that was! Having hardly any inclinations about what the experience would be other than a quick glance of a poster while driving in, I was overwhelmed with curiosity and liberation once inside. For one, there were so many pools, rooms, temperatures, women (of all ages), showers, scrubbing devices, and saunas to distract my attention. How’s a girl supposed to navigate this? Not to mention, I am in the nude, something I have limited experience with, especially surrounded by loads of fellow females. But what a tremendous way to unwind after a day of hiking—the view was priceless and I, as well as the girls I ventured down there with, got to giggle and relax while the Korean women asked us questions, pointed out differences on our bodies, and just generally acted intrigued by us. The whole experience was something I’ll never forget.
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