If only fire drills were this much fun in America...

7th Grade Students in their cluttered environments

From my bedroom window, I couldn't resist capturing this breathtaking spectacle on film.  The principal and teachers take turns spraying the massive hose to seize the burning gas, while students huddle open-mouthed and awed at this magic show of a fire drill.  The sense of urgency  is quite muffled in the demand for entertainment.  My co-teacher told me the teachers all hope the hose gets sprayed on their windows so that they're finally cleaned.  And that's a Korean Fire Drill...

 

Jazzin' it up at Jarasum

Cramped and confined by the concrete I call home, I crave comfort from vast, unindustrialized land.  Particularly in Korea where mountains high five soaring apartment buildings, to interact with land free of screeching horns and flashing “HOF” (bar) signs is a rarity these days.  This landscape explains much about the character of Koreans, and juxtaposed to the vastness of America, landscape also sheds light on American culture.  I, along with many Americans, value our self-constructed concepts of privacy and space.  From the trivial size of a pillow and having to leave my door propped open to the living room, to the more complex matters of the mind, where I tread shallow waters daily, speaking painfully clear and concise to achieve even the simplest of meaning, I find myself craving space.  Maybe it’s freedom, maybe it’s just simply homesickness—however I label it, it’s damn persistent. 

Although this problem presents itself physically, it manifests mentally.  And ironically, often the remedy is physical.  Throw music in there and you’ve the concoction for a mighty, giant dose of jivin’ endorphins. 

The Jarasum International Jazz Festival is held annually in Gapyeong, South Korea.  2010 marks its seventh successful year.  The festival is a three-day event, wherein you can buy a three-day pass or opt for pricier daily passes.  There is also camping available.  Had I prepared better, I would have camped.  The campsites were located right smack in the midst of the action, so literally, you wouldn’t miss a beat. 

Transportation is fairly simple.  I traveled by train from Cheongnyangi subway station (Line 1).  However, I’d advise pre-purchasing train tickets as they were nearly sold out and my traveling partner had to stand.  Otherwise, it’s a smooth ride and you’re instantly greeted with a detailed map of the concert stages, along with times and acts.  Although tickets to the festival sold out prior to our arrival, there are multiple stages with free performances.  Bring a blanket, grab a bottle of wine (7-11 mini stand located inside with reasonable prices), and let the music take hold.  As the sun sprawled across the mountains, the groovin’ began.  Little girls spun their frilly bottoms as the whimsical women took to their feet.  I couldn’t find the energy to sit down, either, I’ll admit.

A taste of Korea: Adventures from Jeju Island to Seoul

Apologies for the lag…of uh…life.  I assure you, if you ventured into the crevices of my imagination, you would have read pages and pages of blog entries. I’ve written them while watching children sheepishly stare at me on the subway, women jiggle their fat in the corner of the gym, and while taking silent strolls nestled secretly between class times.  They’re sharp, attentive, pieces of those moments.  Unfortunately, those entries are as transparent as tangible entries.  So, deep breath.  Let me compartmentalize. 

Let’s do the basics.  Travel.

Travels:

Jeju Island

Honeymoon Island.  The mouthy slogan boasts, “The world comes to Jeju and Jeju comes to the world.”  I stayed with a fellow Fulrighter at her homestay for part of the time, while opting for Lonely Planet’s recommended hostel, Hiking Inn, the other half.  Korean thanksgiving, Chuseok provided the means for this optimal travel experience.  Besides honeymooners, this island is often visited by high school students, perhaps akin to the American Niagara Falls, Washington D.C., etc. annual overnight trip (oh wait, 9-11 and budget kids nixed those opportunities for me).   The Island is easily navigated by bus.  The two largest cities are Jeju-si— cosmopolitan Korean-city feel, flashing lights, moody 20-somethings in oversized sweaters, and coffee priced higher than bimipap and Seogwipo, a smaller, cozy coastal town, easily navigated, with better beaches and olles in proximity.   An olle is essentially a marked hiking/walking trail that runs parallel, in most instances, to the water.  I use parallel loosely, for let’s bear in mind that this is Korea, so the trails intersect rice fields, tourist traps, the lawns of the elite, and bustling bus stops.  Get a tourist map at the airport.   Find the desired distance, hop on a bus, and get a groovin’.  I did Olle 8, and it nearly trumps the coastal views of Ireland. 

Other points of interest: 

Jungmun Beach- arguably most touristy beach on the Island, but the warm, shallow waters provided great relief post Olle.  Filled with foreigners, but the environment was congenial and even entertaining, as we combined English skills to instruct the Korean lifeguard how to say “Come ClosER.”  Koreans struggle with “r” pronunciation, so despite many painful attempts, the lifeguard still bellowed “COME CLOSE,” in his megaphone.  Ahh, it was lovely. 

            In addition to daytime fun, I also had a bonfire on the beach with friends I met in Seoul.  Not sure of the legality, but we gathered supplies, hid beneath the humongous Hyatt Hotel and smore’ed the night away.  We justified the situation given the fact that drunk Koreans were skinny-dipping down the shore.  They eventually extended their stamp of approval by running over in their boxers to scatter twigs on our extinguishing flame.  Have I mentioned that Koreans are a kind bunch of people?

Udo Island- A small island reached by ferry in the Northeast.  Take a taxi or bus (obviously taxi is quicker) from either major city—it’s about 45 minutes to one hour respectively.  We haggled a taxi driver for 25,000 won, or about $25 to allow five people, only two of which female, to make the trek from Jeju-si.  5,000 won and my birth date got me a ferry ticket.  Check out my picassa album to appreciate the absolute wonder of this island and the ferry habits of Korean—sleeping rooms, which I would highly recommend for American ferries.  So simple, yet so delightful, like peanut butter and bread, or maybe I just say that because it remains the only snack in my home besides Frosted Flakes. 

            Rent scooters or ATVS on the island.  It’s cheap, relatively speaking.  15,000-30,000 won for two hours of absolute bliss.  Life is sure delicious zipping around squatting ajumas (married Korean women, or older traditional Korean women) masked by rice fields with the salty taste of ocean blasting you in the face.  Weeeeeee……up and over we romped, stalled, and pushed.  Stopping at lighthouses and cliffs to observe, this was a day to remember.  

Gyeongju, South Korea

            The Korean Fulbright program hosts two annual conferences each year.  The fall conference is in Gyeongju, South Korea.  We exchanged teaching ideas, discussed homestay horror stories, among other cultural business, came to the conclusion that most of us are in the dreaded “rejection phase” of culture shock (there are four phases, according to most scholars), and finally, had 10 hours of choir practice.  I missed the fine print that necessitates strong singing abilities for a Fulbright ETA.
Obviously, they didn’t know that when I was in 11^th grade I overheard my chorus singing partner cackling over how her “singing partner was the worst singer in the world.” 

            Why sing?  Well, that leads me to my next adventure.  We did some sightseeing as well.  Check out the slideshow below to relish is some of Korea’s rich and extensive history.

Shilla Hotel, Seoul, South Korea:  Fulbright Korea’s 60^th Anniversary Banquet

            60 years in Korea is a milestone.  It’s like big freakin’ deal.  So, like all big deals, we threw a big party.  This big party was held at the swanky and sexy, Shilla Hotel in Seoul.  Drop the name and Koreans know what you’re talking about.  Congratulatory messages were sent from President Obama and President Lee Myung-bak.  US Ambassodar Stephens was a highlighted speaker who was regretfully unable to attend.  Among other mentionable State Department employees, Mrs. Harriet Mayor Fulbright herself was in attendance.  She looks smashing for her age, the mystery that it is. 

After speeches, a sensual seven-course Western style dinner, and various performances, we performed a touching song about hate crumbling and bonds forging.  The people still awake really enjoyed it.  It was fun, given the fact we cheersed to about 6 glasses of Cabernet Sauvignon prior to our cultish entrance on stage. 

            Besides singing and stuffing my face, I did some sightseeing and Seoulighting.  I’ll blog on the Seoul nightlife soon, but here are some photos to share in my adventures in Seoul.

Just another blonde drifting through a sea of yellow...

This past weekend I traveled to Yangsu-Ri, South Korea. YANG-what??? Well according to some, this is the “romantic” getaway of Seoul. It is approximately 45 minutes outside of the city by subway…and worth all the hustle.

How did I end up there? I traveled with my trusty Kentuckian, Miss what-do-you-call-a-girl-with-no-legs…Eileen. Invited to a homecoming party of friends from college, Eileen took the bold initiative to drag me along. And glad I am she twisted my arm. Here’s why:

1) I got far away from screaming Korean games shows.

2) My host mom cleaned my room, folded my laundry, and put it away while I was gone.

3) I ate hummus and chocolate fondue (with PINEAPPLE). Two of my favorite things on the planet.

4) I got free beer in the supermarket. Indeed I photographed this extraordinary moment. The moment in which all was right about me and Korea and my purpose in life. I made a “beer loop,” wherein I circuited ALL the obnoxiously fantastic “Cass” beer representatives to sufficiently wet my palette.

5) I met new people. White people. Non-creepy white people (believe it or not, this is difficult to do so in South Korea). I had real conversation. Conversation that extended beyond what type of Korean food I like and the color of my shirt.

6) I got Jehovah Witnessed. Yes, you heard that right. While shopping in the subway (totally actually legit and quite common), two girls kindly strolled up and commented on the color of the sweater I was holding. Mustard yellow—no doubt a great choice on my end (it’s my favorite color besides orange). SO anyways, I am thinking these kind Korean girls are just taking advantage of a prime opportunity to socialize with an unassuming foreigner and put their English to practice. No sweat off my back. That is until one reached into her bag, pulled out some “reading material”—that I saw the “AWAKE!” plastered on the front—and I am no dummy to these folks, I have read this pr propaganda before. You know the rest. Yes, they are everywhere, even in the Republic of Korea.

7) I saw about eight more people sportin’ Tribe gear. For the misinformed, that’s Cleveland Indians. Let me just set the record straight: based solely on mascot representation, the Cleveland Indians have the largest fan base in South Korea. No kidding, they outnumber Yankees immeasurably.

8) I ate delicious kimbab followed by a delightful Baskin-Robbins’ Jamocha Almond Ice Cream Waffle Cone. Eileen ordered some yogurt sensation and got free candy-flavored “face primer."

9) I learned what the symbol for a Korean “love motel” looks like. Now I come prepared.

10) I didn’t have to hear the obnoxious grinding, slurping, and sucking of food bits being chomped and digested by those joining me at the dinner table. The loud eating habits of those I dine with have slowly seeped in my consciousness and this awareness is not subsiding any time soon.

11) I did not have to read an English “journal” at 8:30 a.m. to make corrections for my host family. Only to end up baffled over the use of “gotten” and “got” in the present tense. English is not something to be dissected…just understood. Please, that’s all I’m good for—I am not full of answers. Also, since my host mother is learning English through watching seasons of "Friends," I did not have to endure watching another episode and explaining Phoebe's quirky and bizarre statements. You find that not everything has an answer once someone starts asking.

12) I confirmed what I thought to be true: Koreans love fortune-tellers. Booths are plopped disjointedly in between food vendors selling hotdogs covered not in buns (as one would imagine) but instead a beautiful conglomeration of fried potatoes, or better known as French Fries. Yes, I bought one. The temptation was far too nagging for me to resist. So much for losing weight while in Korea (as some literature alluded would be the case….).

Let me review some Korean cultural elements that I encountered:

1) Staring is A-OKAY. Even in Seoul, I am an anomaly. However, what haunted me as one of my least appreciated God-granted facial features in high school, my appropriately coined, “Jay Leno chin,” is a highly desired facial feature in Korea. There are even devices (torture devices perhaps) that are used to readjust the shape of the face to create a stronger jaw line with greater defined lines—also known as the “V-Line.” Let me illustrate:

Today in class my students, boys no doubt, pointed to my face and said “Real?’

Me: “Real?” Point to face. Make question gesture with hands. “You mean make-up?”

Ss: “No, no…” “This…”—point to chin and face. “Real?”

Still confused, another student exclaims (after searching dictionary nonetheless), “SURGERY?!”

Me: Laugh. “No, no. All Real. Good?”

Ss: “Yes, good, good. Like, like.” Touch face.

Me: “V-line?” Stroke chin.

Ss: OHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!! “Teacher know V-line!”

Me: “Yes, and S-curve?”

SS: WHAAAAAA! (Korean “WHOA”)

2) For more interesting “LINES” aka—“S- line”—what Westerners know as the hourglass figure or “W- line”---aka cleavage…check out this great source I found. Really—I couldn’t have explained it better myself.S Lines Explained here...

3) On similar lines, my friend Eileen was also teased for being rather “ghostly” in appearance. Yet, in Korea her white, nearly translucent skin is highly desired. While in America women use cream or lotion to darken the appearance of their skin, Korean women utilize beauty products for the exact opposite—to achieve the whitest, ghost-like appearance man can produce.

4) This is a conservative culture; thus, shoulders are almost always covered in professional settings, as well as, low-cut shirts are forbidden. However, and this is something of constant amusement, short skirts are given the green light. Exposed, muscle-less, heel-clad legs are all the rage in South Korea. Maybe not in the professional setting, but women do opt for minimal attire on the bottom to be rivaled with sloppy, oversized, shoulder-hiding shirts above. Just one of many dichotomies in this increasingly bizarre culture.

I hope you are amused. Even in the slightest bit. If not this last bit of my life experience will surely do the trick:

Where: Monday

When: last period of the day

Who: 40 sweaty, screaming seventh graders

What: sexually harassed by those sly little monsters.

How: At the beginning of class, I felt two students slightly brush my behind with their hand. I figured, hmmm it feels like they just grabbed my butt—geesh this classroom is way too small. Strange, but I vouched for the good of the students and blamed it on the small parameters of the classroom. BUT, at the end of class, 3 students purposely walked very close behind me and not only did they brush by, I felt this hand appear on my tush and the fingers sprawled out to capture some of my essence. Before I realized what was happening, the bell had rung and the students zipped out of the classroom. The best part is…the crime goes unpunished because I do not know a single name. And that’s how the story goes…

"I love MOGA"

Marble Mansion and Archery Madness

"I told Ben, ZEN!"

Rockin' Cheongju

First Family Picnic

gettin' funky in Seoul

Songnisan

Haeinsa

Where to begin in this epic journey of Jillian Shee (“shee” is Konglish—as this is added to a name to indicate Mrs./Mister)?

I suppose I must backtrack. Yikes. I can feel the weight of this train lugging. The wheels have slowed majorly, but I assure she is still a choo-chooing away.

For one, where am I? Right now, I have arrived safely at my homestay in Cheongju, South Korea—approximately 1.5 hours south of Seoul by bus. But let’s not forget the enduring traffic, so that number could rise easily. At any rate, I live in what’s considered a “house;” however, an apartment is a much better title I suppose. Granted size is limited—majorly limited in this country with a rising population of nearly 50 million crammed in a hilly slab of land comparable to Indiana—my living quarters still feel cramped. Maybe this because it’s “rainy” season—or more appropriately, STIFLING HUMDITY season and there is no AC in my room—just one overworked fan and this silly orange foam thing I purchased in Goesan but neglected since I had extraordinary AC at my previous location. Needless to say, I am sweating healthily.

Furthermore, I now have a family to grapple with. Let’s be frank, folks. I haven’t been a family member per say for quite some time now. It’s the silly stuff that gets me—like when is it okay to leave the living room after I stare at my host brothers and giggle for 45 minutes while they make airplane noises and make helicopters out of one another—or when can I get up from the dinner table—and do I have to watch the “family” TV shows (Korean TV shows are like Disney/Nickelodeon on speed—WHA! As the Koreans would say)—and my favorite, Why does the fruit have to be stored next to the kimchi? It always has a faint taste of that rotten cabbage.

Besides the logistics, I’ll share some knowledge I have acquired about myself. Perhaps this will be humorous—it was for me at least.

1) The first day I arrived at my school (Thursday, “D-Day” or Departure Day when my co-teacher came to Jungwon University to claim me among 100 other Fulbright Grantees/ETAs) I went to the principal’s office. Now, let me preface this—Korea is a hierarchical society. Titles are important and honored. Thus, the principal holds the most prestigious position in the school. At any rate, I am sitting across from and my beautiful and thankfully, English-speaking co-teacher is seated next to me translating my awkward introduction/small talk conversation with my principal.

Grace (co-teacher) turns to me and says, “Did you understand him?”

Me- “No, sorry…” Of course, I am smiling.

Grace- “He said you are very beautiful.”

Me- Blushing, “Oh, well, thank you.” Giggle.

Grace- “Is that, uh, okay? Okay to say that?”

Me- “Well, yes. Well, maybe, that is not to common in the U.S., but I understand it is different here. It is okay because other people have said similar things here.”

Yes, my principal digs me. Good start so far.

**Side note** Korean culture is a high-context culture. It is offensive to make direct statements and requests. Thus, there is a lot of ambiguity in conversation marked by the use of “maybes,” “I think it may be difficult…,” “Perhaps, we can…” I thought it would be challenging to adopt this style of communication, for it differs quite staunchly from American’s low-context style; however, it is so common that I have inevitably adapted to this style without too much effort. Ironically, I am here to teach English and my English is suffering. I am forced to speak slower to ease comprehension and in return, my brain is now processing English less fluently. Language is a sly beast.

2) All students, boys included, flock to ask if my hair is “real.” The first day I mistakenly thought they were insinuating that I was wearing a wig. Silly me. Some of my girl students have shared, in choppy English, that they want “same, same!”

3) Yesterday a boy screamed out that I was “handsome,” only to be corrected by his students that that is for boys.

4) My first lesson is a Jeopardy style game with questions about me. Students must form two teams and select an English team name. Some of my favorite names: “I love Moga,” “Tom and Jerry,” “IndianaJOHNS,” and “Sexy Perfect Pig.” These innovative names came from the male gender.

5) I went to the “Hair Shop” to have my hair colored (basically my roots touched up) and trimmed. However, I left with broke, bleached, and bewildered. Here is my Korean hair salon experience: Go to shop, sit down, have some coffee at the café within the shop, look at Korean-style fashion mags (Marie Claire, GQ, and Vogue), have hairdresser evaluate the quality of my hair, find quality is “not good” so I need a “treatment” or “nutrients” for my hair, then discuss how my hair is highlighted not colored, find comparable Korean color, hold my breath that it will not turn orange, have my head massaged, then receive “treatment,” have scalp massage again (AWESOME!), and then begin the cut, learn that they spilt the forehead in sections of ten, decide to get a 7/3 cut so my bangs cover a little more than 2/3 of forehead, learn that layers are not too popular in Korean, get “Essence” on hair (or more appropriately, “serum”), see that I am blonder or more of a “Korean blonde” as my boyfriend likes to say, learn that that my hair is finer than Koreans and I must buy special shampoo to help restore the condition of my hair, learn that shampoo and conditioner and treatment costs nearly 70,000 won or ($70), too bashful to say no, purchase that and hair treatment, and leave store without my phone and empty pockets. This was the second day at my placement. Phew.

6) I shared a small photo album with my host mother of photos from the past 5-6 years. She told me I look “so cute” in some. Also, that I look skinner with my hair pulled back. She said I look too chubby and my face looks fat with my hair down. Oh yeah, she said my dad is “so handsome.” At least someone passed the tough scrutiny of Korean beauty standards.

7) I live above an art academy. The hallways are colorful and cheery.

8) “Angel in-us Coffee” has become my personal haven. It has the “World Best Coffee.” That slogan just makes me smile.

9) Korean doctors are legit and remarkably affordable. Possible sinus infection?? Take a head x-ray. Strained vocal chord? Provide images of inside throat. Incredibly precise and informational. Also, the ENT doctor (Ear, Nose, and Throat) spoke bloody good English and his father studied at Ohio State! What a small world I tell ya.

10) As I mentioned before, Korean culture is a group culture. Therefore family meals are served from one or many dishes in which they all eat from. However, since I am westerner, I get my own plate. I feel like a princess sometimes.

11) Obsessive cleaning mother: my mother vacuums religiously every morning at 7:45 AM. We do not even have carpet!

12) Tissue paper in trash: Tissue paper is not thrown into the toilet, but rather into the trash can. This is especially true in public areas.

13) Brush teeth: Koreans love to brush their teeth. It’s like a bonding experience. After a meal, all flock to their toothbrushes.

14) Slippers in school: I wear “slippers” in school. So, my routine is: wear flats to school daily, take them off, slip on funny little slipper socks and then slide my feet in my awesome BIRKS. It’s a little strange, because students still wear their slippers outside? So, I am not sure of the purpose.

15) Asking about boyfriend: all girls want to know if I have a boyfriend. Besides my hair color, they all want to know this precious bit of information.

Long-winded I know. I apologize. I am up-to-date now, though so as I promised before, I will try to stay on board.

p.s. MOGA is a type of fruit in Korea. I am not sure which, but I will be sure to share the details when I find out! This is of constant amusement here.